Nissan Xterra Front Suspension Diagram

racermech

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137 Posts

Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Hey guys,

My 01 is feeling a bit loose in the front end and I am getting an odd pop noise while turning and hit a pump (not the full lock bump stops) I am thinking the ball joints are shot (already rebuilt the sway bar a while back). I was thinking of getting a kit like the one below and just replace everything in one shot.

Fits Nissan Frontier 2WD Front Suspension Control Arms and Ball Joints Assembly | eBay

Any comments on a kit like this, or anything else I need to consider when going to rebuild it?

nthorn

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99 Posts

Im finding it funny reading this, I'm working on rebuilding mine but its costing me more then the $300 to do. I'm using almost all ACDelco or OEM from Nissan on my parts for it. Your going to need a good ball joint tool, I think you can rent them autozone. I bought one because I have two cars Im working on rebuilding. Your also going to need a ball joint separator, I know the joints on my truck are giving up a good fight even with one.

I was looking at getting the long travel kit for my truck but decided against it because of cost, I could rebuild everything with Nissan parts and put the bilstein shock on it for less then half the cost of just the total chaos kit.

luke9511

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195 Posts

i have been thinking of doing the same thing on both sides for my 04 cc if you get the kit you listed or a different lets us know how it is and everything

Nissan4Life

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7,074 Posts

Wow that is a nice kit. The only thing that I would add would be complete lower control arms that have the lower ball joint already in place. Or at least the lower control arm bushings. If IIRC the lower arm of the 2wd is a channel arm with a tension rod.

The tension rod bushing need to be replaced too.
Finally since you asked, the kit pictures does not include the inner tie rod. Though they do not wear as fast as the outter, they still do.

nthorn

Joined

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99 Posts

Wow that is a nice kit. The only thing that I would add would be complete lower control arms that have the lower ball joint already in place. Or at least the lower control arm bushings. If IIRC the lower arm of the 2wd is a channel arm with a tension rod.

The tension rod bushing need to be replaced too.
Finally since you asked, the kit pictures does not include the inner tie rod. Though they do not wear as fast as the outter, they still do.

The four and six cylinder trucks have different front suspensions. That ebay kit has listed for the v6 and does have the lower ball joint. You can replace the bushing on the lower control arm but your going to have to remove the torsion bar to remove pressure to get the a arm off.


racermech

Joined

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137 Posts

Discussion Starter · #6 ·

Thanks guys. My friend has a press and I am sure has a ball joint popper. I will try to pick up this kit, or something similar in the next couple weeks and tackle the job from there.

Joined

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96 Posts

I rebuilt the front suspension on my '99 recently. I bought new upper and lower arms complete with new bushings and ball joints. Made for a quick and easy job.

nthorn

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99 Posts

I am just going to replace just the bushings in the arm rather then the whole arm because it is a bit cheaper. Im thinking about painting the arms when I have them off i just haven't figured out what color im going with yet. I also got more parts in yesterday, Im still need to buy the lower control arm bushings but can only buy so meany parts a week lol. I cant work on the truck anyway right now because it just snowed 12 inches in the last two days and then its going to snow more next week as well.

nthorn

Joined

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99 Posts

Repost from my truck build thread.

I will do a full writeup on this when I get everything done, I have the inner tie rod ends showing up today and the bushings for the lower a-arms coming later this week or next week. I need to still buy new shocks and torsion bars in the next couple weeks when I have the funds to do so. There is a big snow storm coming this afternoon where im at and wanted to get something done on the truck last night so I got the center link and idler arm replaced. I was pretty easy to do, it took less then an hour to do.

First just take out all the cotter pins, there are four nuts, two 22mm on the inter tie rod ends and two 19mm on the idler arm and pitman arm.

Use a puller to get the tie rod ends out of the center link and then use the tool to remove the center link from the idler arm and pitman arm. If you turn the wheel full right it makes getting the center link out of the two arms a lot easier after the studs have been popped out.


Go around to the passanger side and pull back the rubber guard to get to the bolts on the idler arm, there are three 19mm through bolts with nuts on the outside of the idler arm. You will need a 19mm wrench on the inside to keep the bolts from spinning, be careful not to damage metal lines (I will have to look I think there the pressure lines for the searing pump) that run next to it

Put the new parts back on, torque to spec and put new cotter pins back on.

Parts I used were

Center link: ACDELCO 45B1154
Idler Arm:Beck Arnley 101-4044

Source: https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/front-end-rebuild.232113/

Posted by: izolaizolabaggotte0269639.blogspot.com

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